In this period, our cars are moving less than usual, and it is not difficult to incur in problems related to the poor performance of the battery, which can discharge a physiologically because of the absorptions of the car or are approaching the end of their recharge cycles, compromising safety and increasing the opportunity to remain at the foot. So we decided to gather in the video (opening) some useful advice and information about the different types of batteries, surrounded by some of the experiments. In so doing it was possible to explain how their technology has evolved exponentially in the last few years, making this component -often overlooked – is a complex organ which is to be given the right attention.
The accumulator has not, as yet, changed shape, and is always identified by a construction square or rectangular in shape is easily accessible in the engine compartment; the negative pole is connected to a terminal easy to manual removal, which brings the mass to the frame and to the positive terminal, which integrates some of the fuse and is divided into more than one cable in the direction of the services. In my case the color of the battery is grey because I is a model Fiamm Titanium Pro L2 64P from 64Ah and 610A of the cue.
Not all batteries are created equal: there are the S. L. I. for vehicles without start-stop system (as in my case) who are those “more traditional”, i.e. with the plates and the electrodes are immersed in acid free; for vehicles with start-stop have been designed batteries with AFB and AGM. The AFB or EFB are an improved version of the SLI and integrate a separator inert porous between the plates, which doubles the resistance in the charging cycles. The AGM further enhance the technology by integrating a separator absorbent glass-fibre between the plates, increasing the surface of contact between the electrodes and the acid (which is the electrolyte) and are therefore capable of providing, at the same size, more energy, starting point and duration, three times greater compared to the SLI. Batteries with AFB and AGM are always accompanied by a dedicated circuit that dialogue monitors the status, so if there are problems it is better not to intervene in person as an alignment is required on the part of a mechanic or a car electrician.
The battery is like a bottle, because ignoring temporarily the nominal voltage of 12 volts, the Ampere (64 in my case) are the total capacity of the bottle, the liquid content is the available energy to be equal to the rate of charge and the starting point is the ability to “exit” the energy in a short time, comparable to the diameter of the neck of the bottle or holes on the plug.
The battery, in good condition, maintains the total capacity. If it is for any reason defective, however, no, as if it were not possible to fill the bottle beyond a certain threshold. Go by himself, then, that in the time of the request of this energy, if there was less on the inside of the bottle, you would exhaust it before draining the battery.
The battery, with the car cold and off, you download only via the absorption of the physiological of the car, which may be between 0.1 and 1 Ampere hour. In the video we have calculated how my car will absorb approximately 0.35 Ampere-hours, this means that in 7 or 8 days (64Ah/0,35 Ah/24h) downtime of the car I will find myself with a dead battery.
To ensure that the battery is in this condition of almost download, in addition to being unable to start the engine, there are alert on the instrument panel or the check on the battery itself through a small porthole that changes color depending on the condition. In my case I used a multimeter to measure the voltage and compare it with some values.
The occasion was equally valid to calculate how much energy is required to the batteries with AGM and AFB to keep lit systems of the car when the engine is stopped, for example at a traffic light, resulting in more than 60 Ampere-hours of absorption when the ignition, the lights and the climate are turned on at the same time. From this test, you can understand why for modern cars to serve battery specifications, able to contain more energy, erogarla in the absence of support of the engine, and recharge quickly just in motion.
To mitigate the difficulties or unable to start due to low battery charge, in the absence of other problems such as wear and tear, you can use an auto loader for SLI batteries and waiting for the time needed depending on the power output, or use a Jumper or a jump using cables between the batteries of two different cars. The only precautions to be taken are a particular attention to the polarity, the connection of the negative always at the pole of the battery and never to the frame and maintaining a state of ignition of the car “donor” during the start-up phase of the “receiver”.
Other measurements have shown how the electrical system of my car, to be able to transmit about 60 Ampere-hours charging the battery, a value that depends from car to car depending on the capabilities of the installed alternator and the electrical system. In a switch-on time of the charge will then be complete.
However, it is not recommended to leave on the car from a standstill to charge the battery, not so much for the condensation unusual oil, as for possible issues, catalysts and anti-particulate filters, that without the motor in the load will never reach operating temperature. Of course, the exception to the rule must be made in case of necessity and impossibility to solve in a different way, but it should not be a habit or a method of maintaining.
And’ advisable to use a spacer charging, which can be found for a few euros, that is designed to stay always connected to the battery for long periods of time, as it delivers current to a lower voltage (around 12.8 volts) to the charging (just over 14V) that keeps the battery at a state of capacity to 95% without can evaporate the electrolyte. In addition, this accessory complements very often, a circuit desolfazione through voltage spike at a specific frequency, to dissolve the crystals dolfato of lead, which, of course, are formed on the pastre of the battery affects the performance.
The recommendation is to intervene primarily for the maintenance of the good condition of the battery, because the battery is a component that is very delicate, on which depend many of the electronic services, and with which the control unit communicates in an active way. Therefore, the replacement should be performed by an electrical repair shop that can align the side of the unit the codes the battery and all systems, in my case, an exercise done by a car electrician certificate of Fiamm Network.